Friday, May 29, 2009

Cedar Rapids

There's a lot to be said for midwest American friendliness; their greetings and cheerful helpfulness were enough to make my morning at the dentist positively delightful and a trip to the grocery store quite shocking after being greeted by five smiling employees. My France-informed Vancouverness almost made me recoil, raise my eyebrow and pose, "Why on earth are you talking to me?" before I quickly eased in to the warmth of public interaction. My most frustrating encounter was post-customs Chicago where a fat, middle-aged man was harassing my newest Bulgarian friend by yelling at her while she struggled with her baggage cart. A bit embarrassed, I said to him, "Sir, she doesn't speak any English" to which he responded, "Well if I came to a foreign country I'd learn to speak the language!" Sure he would. I mused up a number of cutting, witty insults in English and French that part of me itched to have said as I navigated my way to my next flight. Arrogant xenophobe...

The lush oak and maple trees and the sprawling green lawns in front of turn-of-the-century houses look so quintessentially American. The solidity of it all almost makes me wish I was staying to fly kites, take bike rides and light fireworks as my imaginings dictate that an idyllic American summer would entail. My mother's been out digging and replanting the patio garden and soon the pots will be overflowing with colour and the basil, dill and rosemary growing against the muraled  garage wall. The first real thunder storm has been threatening for weeks and I would love to be here for the rumbling downpour. My spacious room even strikes me as comfortably opulent between the dark wooden furnishings and my fluffy down comforter. 

The best part of my time home was catching up with a few friends. I liked going out or having people in- going away is always a reminder of who you can call when you get back. I was struck by how unique each person was and how each friendship had a characteristic dynamic unto itself. This made me glad as I realized that no friend will ever be a replacement for someone else as much their own distinct person that I can enjoy for who they individually are. I find it remarkable that we can have such distinct relationships. I've sometimes felt over-saturated in self-esteem shlop about how "special and unique" each of us is, but I feel like this was manifested in a fresh new way that I was somehow given lens to see and believe.  The attitudes of some of my friends here made me feel cared for in a round, stabilizing sort way, something securely woven to fall back in to. It did me' heart good. 

Today I fly to Vancouver. First to Dallas, my first touchdown in Texas!, and then home to my country, o Canada. It always feels good to be back and set foot on the soil where I was born. I'm getting tingly just thinking about it... Any Canadians to say, "Ay?" (As oppose to nay... this is in fact, a pun.) 

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Family and Friends - Fragility and Fortitude

I'm writing from a vine covered stoney terrace, the tiny private garden in the the middle of the bedroom suites where I'm staying in Laurmarin. In addition to the curious number of cats ands artists' studios, we may be staying in one of the most beautiful regions of France imaginable from the rocky small mountains, the quaint village streets, the olive groves and the rose bushes with glorious colour and size. I've actually invited myself in to the studio apartment of my parents having left Aix a few days early, and I am now the live in daughter and chef while they explore the surrounding countryside. I myself am more than happy to hang back and write and relax.

I don't quite know where to begin in my reflections. I said goodbye to Aix with ever dawning realization of how I'm saying goodbye to all things French and a life and lifestyle that have suited me quite nicely and easily. Life here has been relaxed and undemanding on many counts and it would surprise me if I have such an extended period of ambling repose any time again in the years to come. I learned a lot about relationships- what's required and sometimes what's not, how it's best to be myself and how to work and apologize when myself isn't enough. How friendships need to be trusted and the importance of communication and forgiveness. The time here near the end has been particularly forming as I've had to come to terms with how I can't control or even change how people feel. Sometimes my best won't be enough and I have to juggle appropriate humility while also acknowledging that others can choose and act as well. If I could choose, I would always be exactly what everyone needed and wanted of me... it seems so obvious, but I often struggle to come to terms with the fact that I can never be perfect for anyone and can not make such a demand on myself. I regret announcing this to you all and dash any illusions you may have had of my magical prowess. Better that we all acknowledge this now then all be disappointed later... (sarcasm, sarcasm). 

Mistakes or mere inadequacy can make me feel like such a failure and I've had to constantly negotiate appropriate personal responsibility. These last weeks in particular have been hard practice in learning to be vulnerable but also when to refortify and be the strong woman with removal and bearing. Sometimes I need to admit when I've been hurt and other times I need to step back and remove myself from caring too much. Too much aloofness removes us from the joys of friendship and too much sensitivity runs us over. 

I've realized too that loving people can happen despite all disagreements and differences and it somehow sneaks in to the fabric of living without never quite realizing when it arrived. We find ourselves loving, laughing, caring and crying in ways we'd never expect and changing us more that we sometimes know. I hate to just say "it hasn't been easy" living with Véronique because it would demean all the good aspects of our life together and the teasing and sincerity shared over the dinner table and in the kitchen. She was generous and dramatic beyond measure, and I'll never know a woman like her so intimately again. In the same way with my room mate Jenna, to just note how much our friendship has taught me would miss the heart of the enduring affection between us that's been through train traveling, crazy drama, boring endless hours, and french reflection. I never could have guessed or known to ask for the friendships I formed in France, but they were rich beyond measure and maybe even exactly what I needed. 

I now find myself with my parents, reminded of familial stability that can be there when you need them most but also separate people from who I am and become. I feel older with them than I use to- I love an appreciate them as ever but am also okay with having my own life that takes me in other directions. I feel more myself than ever: good, bad, weaknesses and strengths, this "self-discovery" of youth is hardly the cliché process I expected as much as the inevitable.  

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

The months to Come

Well dear Reader near and far our time in France is drawing to a close. I realized today while slowly climbing the cote, our hill, in the hot afternoon sun- our laborious daily trek up to the apartment from the city- that a week from this Sunday I'll be home in our house and my summer madness waiting just out the door. While life is still rolling with its slow, peaceful pace, I almost hate to mention this next new stage of (good!) business of all my most recent plottings. But, because I can't stop myself and planning gives me peace of mine, this is how the future in all its untelling facts will unfold:

These next two weeks I get to spend delightfully filled with people presence. A friend from A Rocha will be arriving in a couple days and we can tromp around Aix while I play host to all the delights and unusual happenings of our apartment. My parents arrive not long after and besides the pure parent-craving happiness of seeing them, we should have some good traveling together in our rented car out to the sights and smells of Provence. Last hours will be spent with Veronique and Jenna and I'll likely disappear before we know what hit us.
I return to Cedar Rapids, Iowa for 10 days where I hope to unpack and repack for my summer job, august backpacking, and a september move to Vancouver. I got hired as a headcook for a tree-planting company so I'll also likely be doing a last minute scramble of paper work and menu planning. ALSO, there are a few friends that I have so want to see but sadly a pathetic amount of time to share. Once again I must zoom of in a less than heroic way saying, "I'll be back..."
I fly to Vancouver May 29th where I'll crash with my brothers for a few days and do more catching up with friends there. On the couch, in the community house, looking forward to it immensely.
June 2nd, leaving for planting camp via greyhound in to the mysterious northern unknown. Little sleep, good money, deteriorating hygiene, strange life all around...
July 25th, wrap up the planting contracts and likely feeling ready to say, "Get me the $^%# $%#*# out of here!" (planting camp will teach me how to swear more audibly.)
Unward through August I'll be somewhere in the British Columbian mountains likely backpacking, maybe volunteering at Crow for a time, camping, wandering, I don't really know in fact.
September 2nd- Start of a suite-lease with my mum in Vancouver! I'll be moving out there for the fall with plots of taking swimming lessons at the pool, eating dinners with friends, finding a respectable job (maybe unpaid) to boost my resume, finding a fun but likely less-than-luadible paying job, reading books that please and challenge me and being social, reflective and human all around.
I'm actually very happy and excited about everything to come and even looking forward to diving back in to university oh-so-seriously whenever I return.

See, plan-sharing so quickly takes you out of the moment and France. No good, for here is where I am. But now that it's out there, we can forget it and keep on living.

Let's say more on France to Come.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Staying Young

I have been at a christian community/ conservation research centre called A Rocha for almost a week and I am now considering prolonging my stay by a few days despite the difficulties of a keyboard with muddled letters and no apotrophes. The time here has been simple and beautiful and good. We are in the middle of the French countryside so I mere amble down the road takes me to wild flower fields and spectacular sunlit views across the blowing stretch of trees. I found a wooden swing on the far side of the house where I can sit and rock and muse. The people volunteering and working here are an equal mix of french and english speakers, so a fare amount of conversation and banter defaults to french as the english speakers are keen to practice and some of the french workers cant participate in english. I have done my own share of garbadge pick up in a marsh, as well as a bit of raking and cooking, but my most useful emplyement has been in translating sections of their french website in to english. I have also come to quite enjoy the company of a few other workers, with whom we have already had a generous share of laughter, even sillyness, and sincerity. Yesterday a sprawled out conversation on the lawn transitioned in to dinner and then late night chatter well past midnight that was recommenced upon waking at the marathon of kitchen table conversion when the first foul weather permitted little otherwise. I have often remarked that joy is most evident when I can put aside my self-made pretention and partake in the simple activities at hand whether it be standing on my head, going out for drinks or positing my position on the particularities of a teapot.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Spill-over stream of consciousness

As the possibility of returning to a tree-planting camp become more and more feasible with every new e-mail exchanged, I've begun to feel suddenly apprehensive, even scared of what I'm getting myself back in to. I think I thought at the time and even afterwards that it was a once-in-a-lifetime sort of thing, something I could curiously bare and later testify to as another experience come and gone. I think I thought I'd find an outlet for some of the stories, the hours, the things I felt, but they've been kept remarkably sequestered in my memory bank. It's one thing to step out knowing nothing, and  another to deliberately return to it. These scenes when I stepped off the greyhound bus in nowhere northern BC were taken in as if I had a notebook and camera rolling. I sat for 10 hours in the empty parking lot of the town's one grocery store on May 25th, a 90 pound backpack weighing me down, and the world unfolded before me: The drunken natives stumbled past; the shaggy Quebecer on a green children's bicycle kept circling around with a story about how he was trying to get on with a planting company to avenge his two-week dead, murdered girlfriend but was obviously collecting cans; the middle-aged woman I found working in a nearby discount store drove me to her house where her husband and sons slumped around in boxers smoking cigarettes while I hunted for the number of my foreman online; the fat retired truck-driver told me the difficulties of breaking semi-trucks on icy mountain roads in winter time-  keeping me occupied as I hopefully waited for someone to show up, hour after hour, offering his cell phone, watching my things while I ran in to buy some fruit with my last .60 cents, and eventually rolling next to me down the highway in his wheelchair to show me to the motel. I'd say it was a lesson learned in not travelling penniless or without contacts, but I think the human openness proved the contrary. 

Two phone calls (one to my foreman, the other to my mother) and a night's sleep later, I found myself in Tonya's live-in hippie van, bumping down gravel mountain roads as dust and regga filled the air. Freedom (her pampered pooch) took her normal seat in shut-gun while I reclined on the bed in the back surrounded by boxes of eggs and milk, taking in the array of books, bottled herbs, bright sweaters and scarves she'd crammed on to various wooden shelves. Upon arriving I was introduced to Andrew, the recovered-crack addict, dashing maintenance man, who I still recall fondly shooting at with a cap-gun as he lay in a drunken stupor with his feet hanging out the window of his truck. We unpacked and organized the truckloads of food that'd get us through the next three weeks, talked through basic meal planning, and I eventually stumbled off to the forest to set up my tent with a raging headache and a thought to how I hadn't had anything to eat or drink since the trailmix at breakfast. Up at 4 Am the next morning with night-sky faded to soft, sparkling blue, I emerged from the darkness of the trees and hiked to the cook shack where I'd spend countless hours with Tonya in the kitchen, mixing, talking and laughing with a loose joy that only the wilderness can render. 

Some mornings I'd wake up shivering, cold to the bone, and after the hopping, uncoordinated scurry to layer myself in yesterday's filthy clothes in the limited space of my tent, I'd run to the cookshack, turn on the ovens and light the stove top flame as I held my hands over the fire's near heat and leaned in to the open oven door. I was embarrassed by my early arrivals, afraid that Tonya would notice my afternoon's waning if she knew I'd been up mornings over at 1 Am. The cold became my nemesis; rousing myself might have been harder if I did not feel chilled to the bone even in my sleeping bag. The prospect of an oven-heated cookshack after running between refrigerator and dining tent to set out the breakfast and lunch table was my unforgotten incentive as I talked myself through the cold. When Tonya learned of how the cold ceaselessly plagued me, we'd take time to wrap my chest and waist in a sheet, like the bodice of a geisha, that I wore under my many layers of clothes until it eventually trailed out behind me. Tonya once found me sitting on the log near the stove, the sheet wrapped around my head and shoulders, looking something between an alien and refugee. My fingers learned permanent chill, and my hands were so chapped that it's only in France that they've found full recovery. Eventual dishwashing once the planters had come and gone was an excuse to run warm water over my freezing hands and rejoice that the temperatures were warming with the day. I fear the cold beyond all else, the ceaseless inescapable cold that shivered beneath my skin even when every exterior warmth was on me. 

As a child I use to slip out of bed at night and lie on the wooden floor to try and feel how many less fortunate people around the world daily suffered. I'd eventually squirm, turn over, and crawl back in to bed with the rational realization that any such potential suffering couldn't be prepared for as much as dealt with when the time came. I figured I might as well enjoy my bed in the meantime. I still think of this now, and thought of it often last summer, as I lay vertically on my mat, often waking to feel like someone had given me a good kicking during the night. Between lifting, standing, and lying, your body aches in a dull, throbbing sort of way like you've been twisted around and hung up. There is no romance in sleeping on the hard ground, but I'm grateful for what an accommodating sleeper it has made me. 

If I go back to planting some of these known and unnamed fears will likely accompany me, but I think too of how the open air, the trees, the woods, let you shake off any pretension or pride, and let you quietly slip in to whoever you simply can be. I loved my world where my prize was their worship of my edible creations, where I could be quietly me and no-one gave a rat's ass about where I came from or what I knew. Everyone knew each other in this separate sphere, where the hours ticked slowly but you learned to happily exist in the company of the wilderness and the odd assortment of humanity who chose to inhabit it.  


Wednesday, April 15, 2009

French and English

Some parts of French vocabulary learning are easy because a near identical word exists in English. Also, one can also see how it stretches you to use more interesting vocabulary in your own language as the translation has more interesting nuances. Examples:

(Fr) banal = (En) mundane. Hey but we can say banal too woohoo!

(Fr) immense = (En) Immense, though I prefer the French pronunciation. It sounds more weighty

(Fr) décontracté = (En) bewildered. But, not so far off from disconcerted

(Fr) à l'esprit étroit = (En) literally means "at narrow spirit" but we translate as "narrow minded"

(Fr) la parjure = (En) the betrayal. We also have our older word "perjuries" that we should use more often. Interesting note too as I think how jurer "to swear/to promise" comes from the same root in our language: juristication & jury

(Fr) un gueux = (En) a beggar. An old french word that you now only see as le mendiant but if we look at how knees translate as "les genoux" this makes him a sort of "kneeler." In English we of course must look at how "to knee" (s'agenouiller) is exactly the same as we can also "genuflect" before the throne (le trône)

(Fr) la perfidie = (En) the treachory. Now we can at least understand when one's brother calls them a "perfidious nitwit"

(Fr) la menace = (En) the threat. Or the menace. Same in the verb form as "to threaten" is menacer

(Fr) l'infamie = slanderous remark. Easy to understand as it's a negation that forms "in-famous." But, we might want to question the nature of their legacy next time we declare someone "to go down in infamy" as I think we've forgotten the nasty meaning of this declaration

(Fr) la dérision = the scorn or mockery. We too have derisive remarks.

Well, once again a cheerful compilation. Thank you Jean Giraudoux for your deleterious (délétère) provision. Forced french play writes makes me spend a lot of time with the online dictionary.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

And we could all together go out on the Ocean

I feel as if I have not said enough on the sweet rolling landscape of Provence. I run down meandering country lanes that take me through olive groves and up hills where the tile-roofed houses, lines of orchards and waves of small mountains pan the horizon. The fresh brilliance of purple and white trees colour the landscape and the tall roadside grasses are tossed by the ever blowing wind. I sometimes stop and look about me and think whimsically of a camera or a person to whom I could say "look, look!". But instead, like the many other beautiful sights before, I merely try to absorb it in to myself as if one could be satiated by visual consumption. I feel like I'm swallowing a spoonful of beauty, while never certain if this encounter with the natural world will ever have resonance outside myself.

Between the many hours on buses, airplanes, or walks in the wild or civilized countryside, it's fatiguing to travel alone. This is not a new feeling, as I clearly remember wishing for a companion from the first time I flew on my own at seventeen. One can talk about the health of independence, self-establishment and self-knowing, the modern woman who stands solidly on her own two feet- I am not one to dismiss some of these principles and tie myself blindly to marriage for the sake of companionship. But often as I walk or sit alone, I give a thought to how we're made for companionship, for shared appreciation of what we're looking at and shared love as we look at the other. It's for this that I almost don't have the heart to go anywhere new to "see" something else over spring break. I'm tired of just seeing. Who sees me? For afterwards, whom shall I tell, what am I to do with everything that is stored away inside me, my collection of secrets cramming memory's space? I have not the time or the energy enough to write it all out. I'd rather just have someone to look at, understand and say, "Yes... you were there too."

I have no delusions that I'm unique in having memories ever compiling, such is the nature of every human life as each passing year feeds new thoughts and passing. My frustrations lies primarily in the uncomfortable awareness of all that is contained within ourselves. I wonder where experience's value and utility lies if a human never shares what they've seen. I think of those who die of old age, with full heads and closed lips and their life finding justification only unto itself. Some argue that morally each is of innate value in whatever isolation, but surely the exponential potential for joy and depth should be accounted for when two human lives touch. This theme is my predominant question and unsettlement no matter where I go: From my first year in Vancouver where so many days and hours made me feel invisible, to my transfer to Iowa where few people touch my daily life, to my studies where everything I'm learning goes undiscussed, and travels where the people I meet, the stories that grow, the beautiful and poignant things I see take root only inside me. This absence of Shared experience and life makes me feel so terribly lonely yet simultaneously self-reprimanding for never staying in one place long enough to cultivate a continuity that might calm my youthful fears. Here lies the question of responsibility as I may have to admit that between moving, a closed mouth and self-distancing I have only myself to blame.

With this said: continuity is certainly not in my prospects for the months to come. I shall continue to trot between different countries, jobs, books, and people as I'm intrigued by the adventure, and delighted when I can reconnect with old friends. It is indeed the relationships I have with friends and family that I hope to grow by at least placing myself in closer proximity. So while my sense of permanence is still quite impermanent, I hope to at least deepen the relationships that hold me in place. All this said, I have a two week spring break coming up as of this Friday: All of you should get online, do a quick tally, and get the next cheapest ticket to France. Let me know when you're arriving...